2) links to hardware and software Thanks in advance. Hopefully some life can be brought back to this tiny corner of the forum Please tag anyone who is still data logging or may want to be a part of the conversation Bent77, Apr 19, 2018 #1. Sreidmx likes this. Dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member.
The Burn2The Burn2 has the same features as the Burn1, only smaller and more compact.The Burn2 is a revolutionary device that was designed with the automotive enthusiast in mind. It supports chips used in our products aimed at ECUs/ECMs from the late 80s and early 90s.The BURN2 can:. WRITE SST 27SF512, ATMEL AT29C256 and 29F040 chips. READ but NOT WRITE 2732A, 27C128, 27C256 chips (and most other 24/28 pin EPROMs/EEPROMs that can replace one of these chips). With a F2A adapter, it can WRITE our F3 EECIV/EECV chip modules. With a F2E adapter, READ factory Ford ECMs.
with a HDR1 adapter, READ factory GM TPI ECMs that would use a G1 chip adapter.As you can see, it is designed to comprehensively work with our products but it is NOT a general purpose EPROM programmer. If you require programming chips outside these specifications, you probably should look at another product. How to BuyVisit this item’s page in our online store SoftwareThis device can be used directly from TunerPro RT, EEC Editor, Binary Editor software packages as well as the dedicated programmer software.Chris Handwerker was kind enough to write a. Thanks for sharing with us!
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If you have any questions/comments/concerns shoot the mods a message. Thanks!Use any of the model specific tags for single image posts or self posts that may not fall under the last 3 categories.S13.S14.S15.240SX.200SX.180SX.ADVICE (use this when looking for buying or part advice).TECH (use this for any tech related questions).MEDIA (use this for any rad videos/photo galleries)If you are looking for tech info or any related links to external sites, check the wiki.
On the subreddits front page click the wiki button just below the page header.This is a subreddit for 240sx enthusiasts and their rides. Share your build with the community, post pictures of your ride, and ask questions. You can even post up pictures and videos of any other S-chassis, it's all welcome here.And please remember, no hating. Everyone has their own style be it for a track star or trailer queen, but again, it's all welcome here.If there are links to other subreddits or anything you want to add to the wiki message the mods.RELATED SUBREDDITS. I really want to build a conservative turbo setup on my DOHC KA with a Saab Garrett T25 and could have all of the necessary hardware for $500. Now with a really baisc 220 RWHP setup, what should I do for ECU?
Is there any cheap option for something this mild, or is it certain that I should go JWT/Nistune? Because that will alone double the cost of the build. I hear nothing but bad things from S-AFC, but for something small is this viable? For some reason I can't really justify paying 600 dollars just to tune for a small increase in power. Thanks turbo gods. 220 RWHP is not really basic - the KAE only had 140 and the KADE is 155, so you are talking about an increase of 65-80hp.
Also note that those numbers are per Nissan and probably from the crank, making it closer to a 100+ hp gain. Not to mention the fact that there is nothing basic in taking an NA car and boosting it - the ECU just is not setup for this. Also, to make that HP you will need to change the injectors and probably the MAF, too, which are major changes to the ECU. You also fail to mention exactly what your engine is - is it a DOHC or SOHC? If you have an SOHC, then I recommend doing the U12 stanza ECU conversion and trying to track down DeviousKA's (from the ol hybridka/eccs tech forums) Zeitune for it. If you have a DOHC, then you will need a daughter board, chips, consult cable and rom burner if you want to DIY/cheap.
I think I might actually have a KA24DE base turbo ROM somewhere that is basically for the SR setup - SR injectors, turbo and I think a z32 MAF.Basically, you will need to either:1) DIY. A true DIY way (make your down daughterboard, consult cable etc.) could cost maybe 40-50 bucks at the most. When I was making boards I think I had the cost down at around 10-20 bucks a board, and the consult cable is pretty simple if you used Calum's design. Otherwise these can cost maybe 100-150+ premade2) Send it off to a good rom tuner like JWT or another good tuner3) Buy a Nistune or NismoTronic setup.
Basically the same as #1, but it has real time tuning ability and holds your hand a lot more.4) Go complete standaloneOptions 1-3 are pretty good. Option one is the cheapest way, but also the most hassle and it has, by far, the highest learning curve. Option 2 is the easier, as you pay someone to do everything for you. Option 3 is kind of a hybrid of the two, where you still need to do the tuning yourself but it makes it much easier (and quite a few tuning shops support those two systems). Option 4 is quite expensive and has a very high learning curve. If I have it, I think I also think my super hacked stage3 NA tune I can merge in.
That had a 2 step rev limiter (including both ignition and fuel cuts - again DeviousKA's work)/launch controller along with the electric can controller mod. The launch controller is pretty sweet with boost. Ugh, lol, totally missed that in the first comment - it's what I get for replying to things while working.So the dohc is pretty cool, but it requires a daughter board, and, yes a computer. For tuning, I would just pick up a dirt cheap IBM t42 laptop, as it had a serial port, which most rom burners need.
When I get to my PC I will edit this with a list for diy.BTW, won't edit the first, I like to be reminded of my general failures in reading comprehension.EDITHere is what you need to DIY:1) Daughterboarda) - 65 USD, quality, you also need chips (about 2-5 bucks)b) - Moates one, $45c) Calum had an open basic design that would be about 10-15$ to build, but I can't find it anymored) My buddy might have a few left over from DeviousKA's design that I made years ago. Would probably let them go for 20-30 bucks2) Chip Burner:a) Willems: $45b) Moates: $85 (oO)3) Consult Cable:a) PLMS: $87 USDb) DIY: - maybe 20 bucks?c) Ebay, something like: $20 bucks. Your mileage may vary on the Ebay stuff - they all pretty much use Pete's (PLMS) free design or Calums.That is all the hardware you need. Next, the software:1) Tuning software:a) Tuner Pro: - Freeeeeeb) Live Edit2) Consult Software:a) Nissan Datascanb) ScanTechc) ConZultd) SRTalkBasic tuning theory links:1) For 300zxs, but applies to all 16bit Nissan ecus:2) Items for tuning (bit out of date, rehashes the above):Unfortunately, ECCS/HybridKA is apparently dead now (at least until I track DeviousKA down again), but there are a few other cool forums out there with tuning stuff like the KA-T and sr20det (calum's section) forums. If you really want to tune, I will be more than happy to put up a ZIP file with the XDA I made along with the Stock KA24DE rom, my 'Stage 3' NA rom, and even some of my experimental roms that I was able to milk about 30mpg out of while retaining good power. I was able to hit close to 200rwhp NA on them - can't claim I actually did as certain unfortunate events played out before I could get it to a proper dyno, but I will say that NA with the other mods I had it felt as good, if not better, than my SR with a stock t25 @12psi.I do also want to say that this is really only if you want to geek out about tuning. I personally am a software/computer engineer by day, so I enjoy this stuff on the side.
However, I do think if you can understand the concepts of the maps, K Value and other scale (see the 300zx guide), its really not that difficult to do. I have tried to detail the DIY approach, which is the cheapest way to go. I do also recommend Nistune and NismoTronic - they are great products. However, as a semi open source guy, I do feel kind of sad that the majority of the Nissan tuning stuff seems to have gone in the proprietary direction since I left the scene about 4+ years ago. If I ever find the free time I do want to do some cool OSS things for this - but, that probably won't happen anytime soon.I do -highly- recommend at least getting a consult cable as that makes almost everything easier, from diagnosis to setting timing to even doing the IACV adjustments. I also recommend, if you want to get your feet wet tuning, to start NA first, and then work your way up to a turbo (with injectors/maf/etc).
NA is much easier to work with at first, and you can do some really cool things like adding ignition cuts, 2 step rev limiters/launch control, electric fan controllers/etc.EditUgh, that was a wall of text - but I hope it helps you or anyone else. In all honestly, there is so much potential in the stock ECUs, that I do recommend being familiar with this stuff. Feel free to ask for any help or advice - if you are in the Boston area I could probably help you out more easily (I accept beer as currency).